Bermuda Shorts, Part 2 (Shoreline Scenery )

Shorelines defined Bermuda, with no single spot on the archipelago more than a half-mile away from water. Throw in a bunch of hills and it seemed almost impossible to find a place without a spectacular view.

This amazing scenery seemed like a fitting topic for the second article in this series now that I’ve gotten the work stuff out of the way. I’ll highlight a few locations going from east to west, mirroring how we actually toured the island (see approximate route). We began our trip at the international airport in St. George’s Parish and pushed onward until we eventually reached the Royal Naval Dockyard several days later. The places I’ve chosen to highlight should not be considered all inclusive by any means. The complete list would almost never end.


St. George’s Parish

We spent the first three days in St. George’s Parish, with perfect weather in the period before things got busy for us. I think that contributed to my particular enjoyment of this corner of Bermuda. We covered a greater percentage of the coastline, took many more photos and savored the out-of-season quietness. As a result, I’ll feature more locations from St. George’s than any other parish.

Tobacco Bay

Visible signs of Bermuda’s volcanic origin

The beach at Tobacco Bay (map) might be the nicest one on the eastern end of Bermuda. It did look great and I’m sure people enjoyed lounging on the sand or hanging out at the beach-side bar during the summer months. I preferred the interplay of jagged volcanic rock and ocean. Dazzling blue and green waters seemed otherworldly.

Dreu’s Bay

The beach at Dreu’s Bay

Should someone grow tired of the crowds at Tobacco Bay then a tiny hidden beach at Drue’s Bay might be an antidote. We spotted this gem while walking the St. George’s shoreline along Barry Road where it intersected with Grenadier Lane (map). A little set of concrete steps led down to the beach, not readily apparent from the roadside. People used the beach — I saw footprints in the sand — although I figured most tourists never ventured out this far. I hope I didn’t just give away a local secret.

Ferry Point Park

Whale Bone Bay in Ferry Point Park

Ferry Point Park occupied most of the western tip of St. George’s Parish, a rare and sizable expanse of undeveloped acreage. It contained a couple of old fortifications, extensive walking trails, one of Bermuda’s few ponds, and of course incredible scenery at every turn. We walked out to its farthest tip, because of course we did, to Whale Bone Bay where I took this photo (map).


Hamilton Parish & Smith’s Parish

Flatts Bridge where Flatts Inlet meets Harrington Sound

I visited a particularly interesting spot right on the border between Hamilton Parish and Smith’s Parish. Here the Flatts Bridge crossed over the point where Flatts Inlet accessed Harrington Sound (map).

Harrington Sound might be considered the closest thing to a lake in Bermuda although narrow Flatts Inlet connected it to the ocean (as did an underground cave system). Tides rushed aggressively between the inlet and the sound. Notice the current in the photo.

By the way, don’t go looking for the City of Hamilton in Hamilton Parish. You won’t find it there. Several miles separate them. Wikipedia explained that they got their names from two different people at two different times, Henry Hamilton (the city) and James Hamilton (the parish). Still, it seemed confusing.


Pembroke Parish

Hamilton Harbour near the City of Hamilton

Hamilton Harbour bordered the City of Hamilton although not exclusively (map). Other parishes touched it too, including Pembroke, Paget and a tiny corner of Devonshire. I happened to be standing in Pembroke Parish when I took this photo. Hamilton Harbour had continuous boat traffic including container ships and ferries. However, this quiet corner at the farthest reach of the harbour served more as a place to store residents’ boats.


Southampton Parish

The Southernmost part of Bermuda, where it began to curve and hook towards the west, formed most of Southampton Parish. I think the Southampton name might have been a coincidence although I couldn’t think of a better place for it than the south.

Horseshoe Bay

The Iconic Horseshoe Bay Beach

In my opinion, no other beach in Bermuda rivaled the pristine sands hugging Horseshoe Bay (map). That’s saying a lot because Bermuda was simply filled with great beaches. No wonder the race we came to see ended there with a finish line party. This beach would be packed during summer months. During a rainy, windy February afternoon? Not so much. Turquoise waters dazzled the eye even under threatening skies. Even so, I had the place almost entirely to myself until the runners arrived.

West Whale Bay

Rolling hills meet water at West Whale Bay

One day I rented a bicycle and cruised the Bermuda Railway Trail through several parishes. I took a short detour at the western end of Southampton, heading down to the park on West Whale Bay (map). I went there to see an old fort nearby. However, the scenery seemed equally impressive. I wished I’d brought a picnic lunch.


Sandys Parish

For some reason Bermudians pronounce Sandys as “Sands” (without the y). I don’t know why. Actually I do now — I just looked it up. Edwin Sandys of the Virginia Company that founded the Bermuda colony in the 17th Century pronounced it that way.

Scaur Hill

Fort Scaur atop Scaur Hill

I stopped atop Scaur Hill on Somerset Island, on the Great Sound side (map). It was a day so clear I could see all the way across to Pembroke Parish. I’d made it nearly to the tip of the western end although I still had a ways to go.

Royal Naval Dockyard

End of the road on the western side

Eventually I made it to the Royal Naval Dockyard (map), a bastion that once guarded the entrance to the Great Sound. From here, travelers would need to sail several hundred miles to reach the nearest dry land on the North American mainland.


Articles in the Bermuda Shorts Series:

  1. Follow the Leader
  2. Shoreline Scenery
  3. The Outsider
  4. Bermuda Railway Trail
  5. St. George
  6. Forts
  7. Architectural Details
  8. Museums & More
  9. Lists

See Also: The Complete Photo Album on Flickr

Comments

One response to “Bermuda Shorts, Part 2 (Shoreline Scenery )”

  1. Melvin L. Koonce Avatar

    I was in the US Navy in Bermuda from 1960 to 1967. I wonder what happened to the base at NOB. Thanks!!!!!!!

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